Sejarah daur ulang busana: kepiye para fashionista abad kaping 19 ngowahi, nganyarke lan diterusake.

Potongan iki diadaptasi saka Dressing Up: Women Influencing French Fashion (MIT Press), sing asline diterbitake dening MIT News Reader lan diterbitake maneh ing kene kanthi ijin.
Pimpinan fashion terus ngunggahake upaya sawise COP26 kanthi semangat ngajak jagad supaya tumindak babagan owah-owahan iklim. Chloé dadi merek mewah pertama sing entuk "status B Corporation" sing diidam-idam lan saiki duwe segel persetujuan kasebut, menehi tandha komitmen kanggo nyuda. impact ing wong lan planet liwat nggunakake energi dianyari lan bahan ethically sumbere, antarane atusan inisiatif liyane s karusakan.The Worn Wear Center in Patagonia ndadékaké trade-in nanging isih bisa digunakake kategori apparel. ” perusahaan thrift ThredUp (didegaké ing 2009), Poshmark (didegaké ing 2011) lan The RealReal (didegaké ing 2011).Transaksi kadhaptar, kabeh telu duwe wutah dhuwur, nanging durung duwe bathi dhuwur.
Ing wektu sing padha, media fashion, lan WWD utamane, nelusuri klaim penipuan dening merek mewah kaya Coach saka tumindak sing diduga sadar sing ditemokake ngrusak tas tangan sing ora sampurna tinimbang ndandani utawa nggunakake maneh. Pengaruh media sosial kanthi umum isin wong-wong mau, nalika podcasters nimbang menang lan kantun merek. Wartawan fashion Amy Odell, penulis buletin "Back Row" independen, fokus ing klaim perusahaan palsu. Ing ramalan dheweke kanggo 2022: "Klaim 'kelestarian' omong kosong bakal terus ditindakake kanthi serius, sanajan dheweke bakal ngadhepi regulasi sing luwih angel ing AS "Dheweke nyathet yen "taun iki FTC bakal ngowahi Pedoman 'ijo'," sing tujuane mbantu para pemasar supaya ora nggawe klaim lingkungan sing nyasarake konsumen.
Kanthi "belanja adhedhasar nilai" lan "kelanjutan pilihan produk" saya mundhak, saiki dadi wektu sing tepat kanggo ndeleng kepiye praktik kasebut cocog karo praktik kepungkur. Félix lan House of Worth) lan klien internasional sing cerdas? Apa sing bisa kita sinau saka komitmen abad kaping 19 babagan panggunaan maneh lan upcycling, kualitas tinimbang kuantitas?
Ing pungkasan abad kaping 19, fashion Prancis minangka tuku kemewahan utama kanggo wanita Amerika sing sugih. Wanita sing mbuwang ewu dolar ing gaun Prancis ngoptimalake investasi kanthi nggunakake maneh - nganggo kaping pirang-pirang sajrone musim utawa taun, beda karo apa padha nindakake karo perhiasan sing paling terkenal Ora beda. Dheweke uga nganggo sugih ing wangun asli, re-upholster iku, utawa ngrekrut Produsèn asli utawa Ngatur lokal kanggo remodel it.Laku iki nggambarake emphasis ing tekstil kemewahan lan rumiyin bosok. ing budaya kraton Eropah.Minangka sejarawan lan kurator Kate Strastin njlèntrèhaké ing Nang Wardrobe Royal: The Dress History of Ratu Alexandra, Alexandra, Putri Wales, wis Lady Liz lan perusahaan Ngatur dheweke rubah gaun pengantin Inggris-digawe menyang gaun sore. Ing Maret 1863, sawetara dina sawise dheweke nikah karo Edward VII. Strastin ngandhani yen kanggo Marlborough Ball taun 1874, Perusahaan Elise katon wis ngganti rasukan Alexandra w.bijih ing Waverley Ball ing London ing taun 1871. Busana kasebut nduweni label Elise lan dilestarekake saiki ing Koleksi Busana Upacara Royal ing Istana Kensington.
Mary Endicott Chamberlain ngagem busana sutra biru pucet padha House of Worth karo lace, beading lan beludru kanggo loro acara pengadilan kapisah ing London ing Maret lan Juli 1893. Acara pisanan ana resepsi ing kamar gambar Ratu Victoria ing Istana Buckingham, lan sing nomer loro yaiku manten Adipati lan Putri saka York (mengko dadi Raja George V lan Ratu Mary). Dheweke uga biasa ngirim gaun Worth bali menyang omah fashion kanggo dandanan, kaya nalika dheweke pengin renda Van Dyke. kerah ing gaun satin abang.
Ing wiwitan taun 2000-an, wanita kelas atas ing Amerika ngadopsi preseden kraton kanggo repurposing sandhangan. Nalika Elizabeth Patterson saka Baltimore nikah karo Jerome Bonaparte ing taun 1803, dheweke nganggo busana muslin putih bordir, sing wis digunakake kaping pirang-pirang wiwit saiki. Busana Prancis Nancy Fowler McCormick , saiki ana ing koleksi Chicago Historical Society, nuduhake tandha-tandha bakal dipakai maneh. Dheweke melu akeh acara sosial karo bojone, jutawan Cyrus Hall McCormick, lan nganggo gaun Worth kanggo pesta pernikahane putrane ing taun 1904.
Akeh ageman elit dadi pusaka, ditulis ing wasiat, lan banjur dadi ahli waris kanggo milih carane bakal nganggo, nganggo utawa tanpa owahan. , lan tulip renda sing ditinggalake ing wasiat kanggo gaun pengantin ibune pinggiran godhong. Alva lan putrine Consulo banjur nggunakake renda ing gaun pengantin. Mangkono uga, ing taun 1883, filantropis Caroline Louisa Williams Prancis saka Boston, Massachusetts, tuku biru peteng. setelan beludru karo trim wulu chinchilla lan label Maison Lipman kanggo 1.600 francs. Merek, dikelola dening Madame Camille Lipman, mlayu ing Paris ing taun 1880-an, lan klien kalebu Maria Pia, Ratu Portugal. Sawetara 37 taun sabanjure, Alice Williams Pearse , keturunan Prancis, digambarake nganggo gaun lan tas chinchilla, tanpa jas, ing acara ngrayakake Amandemen kaping sangalas, sing Amandemen kasebut menehi hak milih wanita. Kostum lan foto saiki ana ing H.istoric New England.Orme Wilson Jr. lan Richard Thornton Wilson III nyumbang koleksi gaun menyang Metropolitan Museum of Art dening Houses of Worth, Doucet, lan Paquin, luwih nyediakake sak klebatan menyang carane couture wis tuwuh liwat cabang saka siji kulawarga Feel .Sadulur Wilson iku putra saka William Buckhouse Astor Jr lan putri Caroline Astor Carrie.
Kanggo acara kaya Centennial Ball sing dianakake ing saindhenging negara ing taun 1876, wanita menehi gaun sing niru sing dipakai dening leluhure ing potret lan foto. Perancang busana, sing kerep melu nggawe kostum panggung sing diilhami sejarah, dilengkapi kanthi apik kanggo nggawe replika. gaun.Sawetara wanita nggunakake potongan-potongan saka koleksi renda antik pribadi ing macem-macem kesempatan, kayadene Astors, sing nglumpukake renda Flemish lan Prancis abad ka-18, sawetara sing isih urip. Ing pesta putri Helen, James R. 1878, Caroline Astor kanthi bangga ngagem gaun beludru ireng kanthi potongan renda umur 200 taun.
Outlet liyane kanggo nggunakake maneh liwat sampah saka pemilik menyang pembantu utawa panampa amal.Caroline Astor nyumbang sandhangan kanggo rumah sakit wanita, nalika Cornelia Stewart, sing nikah karo pengecer AT Stewart, ngandika wis menehi sawetara saka sandhangan dheweke kanggo wong wadon ing Perlu Singer ing kostum panggung. Minangka Diana de Marley (penulis "History of Haute Couture") lan Kate Strastin wis ditampilake, praktik kasebut minangka produk saka praktik kraton Eropa kanggo nyerahake busana kasebut marang para abdi, Ratu Victoria lan Alex Dadi Putri. Sandra.Wales.Alur liyane yaiku ngedol busana menyang pedagang bekas, turunan saka perdagangan sandhangan bekas Eropa sing wis suwe. Ing Paris, perdagangan iki wis ana wiwit abad kaping 13, lan ing abad kaping 18 dikonsentrasi ing sekitar Les Halles. .Ing abad kaping 19, anggota kulawarga kraton bakal ngedol sawetara makelar sandhangan.
Wiwit awal abad kaping 18, Inggris uga nduweni sajarah adol sandhangan kraton lan aristokrat ing ijol-ijolan sandhangan lawas ing London Timur, minangka rincian Jennifer Le Zotte ing bukune From Goodwill to Grunge. perdagangan tangan ing Lower East Side iki didhukung dening rawuh saka nomer akeh imigran Eropah anyar antarane 1880 lan 1920, mbukak utamané dening wong Yahudi karo pengalaman ing peddling lan tailoring.Sawetara iklan ing koran lokal nawakake kanggo tuku sandhangan dibuwak.Iklan bisa uga perlu. minangka hawkers katon ajeg begalan saka tuku sandhangan ing dodolan gropyokan amal.Anti-Semitism teka menyang muter kene amarga Yahudi padha historis katon minangka dominasi perdagangan, kang digawe metu saka kabutuhan nalika padha begalan saka Profesi lan nguripake kanggo cart touring dodolan.
Para pemain dadi kreatif babagan carane entuk lan nangani kostum sing larang. Nalika penyanyi opera Emma Abbott tilar donya ing taun 1891, aktris Jeanne Kimball tuku gaun Worth lan Félix sing dianggo Abbott ing Carmen sawetara taun kepungkur. lintang ing panggung.Nalika Elena saka Montenegro ora bisa nggunakake sawetara gaun Félix anyar kanggo periode wektu ing mourning kanggo raja Italia Umberto I dipatèni dening anarkis, couturier pisanan sijine wong ing Pameran Universal ing Paris On display 1900. Nalika ngunjungi pameran, Francesca Redding admired ing rwaning-mbalek sutra ijo lan gaun chiffon, tuku, lan cepet sijine iku ing tataran.Pakar sosial lemari klambi Mary Rita Wilson-Gollette kang, kang kasebut kanthi teliti, dilacak ing arsip invoice ana, kabaripun didol menyang New York. Klien teater Eves sawise dheweke mati lan dipakai dening pirang-pirang aktris, miturut laporan..Pungkasane, aktris Sadie Martinot ngedol gaun panggung Worth lan Félix dhewe ing lelang ing Mei 1894 kanthi rega $35.000 (luwih saka $1,1 yuta saiki). ing 1892, "karo rok, rok, lan sandhangan Basque Hung telung utawa papat crita jero".
Para panuku ing toko bekas yaiku wanita kelas menengah sing sandhangane bakal tahan nganti pirang-pirang taun.Hannah Ditzler Alspaugh saka Illinois nyathet ing jurnal lan buku tempelan kain sing bakal digawe maneh utawa "nyuwek" sajrone pirang-pirang taun, kalebu sing dianggo. ing World Columbia Show ing Chicago Suits, utamané, dianakaké acara sak krisis financial nasional 1893. Kanthi planning ati-ati lan pangopènan, rasukan bisa wadi lan asring nyandhang.Nalika udan, lendhut, moths lan jamur mundhakaken uneg-uneg luwih, multi- jeroan berlapis tumindak minangka penghalang antarane lenga awak lan rereget lan akeh sandhangan.
Praktek ndarbeni apa sing dikarepake lan banjur digunakake maneh, nyebarake lan ijol-ijolan wis nyebabake fashion Prancis disebarake ing koleksi ing saindenging jagad. Minangka Strastin nuduhake, gaun Ratu Alexandra dilelang dening Asosiasi Seni Amerika lan Galeri Seni Anderson ing taun 1937. , lan seprapat saka iku dituku dening Erin Lewison lan didol ing Metropolitan Museum of Art The School of Clothing diadegaké.
Senajan materi iki duwe sethitik kesadaran sosial ing konsepsi saiki-wulu, wulu manuk langka, lan malah headdresses karo critters taxidermy seng di pengeni-kita bisa appreciate soko gawan ing periode , ditampa laku nggunakake maneh, lan apa sing saiki kita sebut upcycling. kemewahan fashion Prancis sing dituku, wanita Amerika nggawa pragmatisme tartamtu menyang pasar.ThredUp, Poshmark lan The RealReal prioritize tujuan, kanthi sengaja ndawakake umur sandhangan minangka pilihan konsumen sing etis lan adoh saka stigma sing dikarepake. pungkasan abad XIX, ing bunderan sosial paling dhuwur, ana apa-apa kanggo mbusak stigma.
Kanggo nyilih istilah perusahaan pendidikan fashion Motif, wanita Amerika sing tuku fashion Prancis ing pungkasan abad kaping 19 ngenalake "model bunder sing sandhangan kasebut dirancang lan dikembangake kanthi nggunakake sabanjure".Tuku kualitas dhuwur.Gunakake maneh, utawa nyumbang .
“));var p=b(h[i.size_id].split(“x”).map(function(e){Return Number(e)}),2);f.width=p[0], f.height=p[1]}f.rubiconTargeting=(Array.isArray(i.targeting)?i.targeting:[]).reduce(function(e,t){return e[t.key]=t. nilai[0],e},{rpfl_elemid:l.adUnitCode}),t.push(f)}else Object(r.logError)(“Rubicon:bidRequest 在索引位置未定义:”.concat(o),n , e);bali t},[]).sort(function(e,t){return(t.cpm||0)-(e.cpm||0)})},getUserSyncs:function(e,t , n, r){yen(!U&&e.iframeEnabled){var i="";bali n&&"string"==typeof n.consentString&&("boolean"==typeof n.gdprApplies?i+=""gdpr=”. concat (数字(n.gdprApplies),"&gdpr_consent=”).concat(n.consentString):i+=”?gdpr_consent=”.concat(n.consentString)),r&&(i+=””.concat(i?” & “:”?”,”us_privacy=”).concat(encodeURIComponent(r))),U=!0,{type:”iframe”,url:”https://”.concat(y.syncHost|| ” eus ”,”.rubiconproject.com/usync.html”)+i}}},transformBidParams:function(e,t){return Object(r.convertTypes)({accountId:”number”,siteId:”number” , zoneId:”nomer”},e)}};函数_(e,t){var n=obgetConfig(“pageUrl”);return e.params.referrer?n=e.params.referrer:n||(n=t.refererInfo.referer),e.params.secure?n.replace(/^http:/ i,”https:”):n } 函数 j(e){var t,n=document.getElementById(e.adUnitCode);(t=n.querySelector(“div[id^='google_ads']“)) &&t.style.setProperty(“display” ,”ora ana”),fungsi(e){var t=e.querySelector(“script[id^='sas_script']“),n=t&&t.nextSibling;n&&”iframe” ===n.localName&&n.style. setProperty("tampilan","ora ana")}(n);var r=e.renderer.getConfig();e.renderer.push(function(){window.MagniteApex.renderAd ({width:e.width,high :e.height,vastUrl:e.vastUrl,placement:{attachTo:”#”.concat(e.adUnitCode),align:r.align||”center”,posisi:r .position||”tambah”}, closeButton:r.closeButton||!1,label:r.label||void 0,collapse:r.collapse||!0})})}函数S(e,t) {var n=e.params;if (“video”===t){var i=[];bali n.video&&n.video.playerWidth&&n.video.playerHeight?i=[n.video.playerWidth,n.video .playerHeight]:Array.isArray(Obyek (r.deepAccess)(e,”mediaTypes.video.playerSize”))&&1===e.mediaTypes.video.playerSize.length?i=e.mediaTypes.video.playerSize[0]:Array.isArray(e.sizes)&&e.sizes.length>0&&Array.isArray(e.sizes[0])&&e.sizes[0].dawa >1&&(i=e.sizes[ 0]),i}var o=[];return Array.isArray(n.sizes)?o=n.sizes:void 0!==Object(r.deepAccess)(e ,”mediaTypes.banner.sizes”) ?o=A(e.mediaTypes.banner.sizes):Array.isArray(e.sizes)&&e.sizes.length>0?o=A(e.sizes):Object(r.logWarn)(“Rubicon: 没有设置或找到大小"),w(o)}fungsi E(e,t,n){var i={user:{ext:{data:f({},e .params.visitor)}},situs: {ext:{data:f({},e.params.inventory)}}};e.params.keywords&&(i.site.keywords=Object(r.isArray)(e.params.keywords)?e.params .keywords.join(“,”):e.params.keywords);var c=Object(r.mergeDeep)({},obgetConfig(“ortb2″)||{} ,i),s=Object(r. deepAccess)(e.ortb2Imp,”ext.data”)||{},u={user:[4],site:[1,2,5,6]}, d={user:”tg_v.”, situs:”tg_i.”,adserver:”tg_i.dfp_ad_unit_code”,pbadslot:”tg_i.pbadslot”,kata kunci:”kw”},l=function(e,t,n) {if(“data”===t&&Array .isArray(e))return e.filter(function(e){return e.segment&&Object(r.deepAccess)(e,”ext.segtax”)&&u[n]&&-1!==u[n].indexOf (Object(r.deepAccess)(e,”ext.segtax”))}).map(fungsi(e){var t =e.segment.filter(fungsi(e){return e.id}).reduce(function (e,t){bali e.push(t.id),e},[]);if(t.length >0)bali t.toString()}).toString();if("obyek"! ==v(e)||Array.isArray(e)){if(void 0!==e)return Array.isArray(e)?e.filter(function(e){if(“objek”!==v(e)&&void 0!==e)return e.toString();Object(r.logWarn)(“Rubicon:过滤值:”,e,”for key”,t,”:期望值为字符串、整数或字符串/整数数组”)}).toString():e.toString()}else Objectn(r) ("Rubicon: Tombol FPD sing disaring: ",t,": Nilai sing dikarepake yaiku string, integer, utawa array string/int")},p=function(e,t,r){var i= !(argumen .length>3&&void 0!==argumen[3])||argumen[3],o=l(e,r,t),a=d[r]&&i?”.concat(d[r ]): ”data”===r?””.concat(d[t],”iab”):””.concat(d[t]).concat(r);n[a]=n[a ]?n [a].concat(“,”,o):o};Object.keys(s).forEach(function(e){“adserver”===e?[“name”,”adslot”] .forEach(函数(t){s[e][t]&&(s[e][t]=s[e][t].toString().replace(/^\/+/,”"))}): ”pbadslot”===e&&(s[e]=s[e].toString().ganti(/^\/+/ ,”"))}),t===ab?(["situs", "user"].forEach(function(e){Object.keys(c[e]).forEach(function(t){“网站”===e&&”内容”===t&&c[e][t]. data?p(c[e][t].data,e,”data”):”ext”!==t?p (c[e][t],e,t):c[e][t ].data&&Object.keys(c[e].ext.data).forEach(function(t){p(c[e]. ext.data[t],e,t,!1)})})}) ,Object.keys(s).forEach(fungsi(e){“adserver”===e?p(s[e].adslot,jeneng,e):p(s[e],”situs”,e)})):(Object.keys(s).length&&Object(r.mergeDeep)(n.imp[0].ext,{data :s}),Object(r.mergeDeep)(n,c))}function A(e){return Object(r.parseSizesInput)(e).reduce(function(e,t){var n=parseInt(h [t],10);bali n&&e.push(n),e},[])}函数I(e){bali”obyek”===v(Obyek(r.deepAccess)(e,”params.video “))&&void 0!==Object(r.deepAccess)(e,”mediaTypes.”.concat(ad))}函数 T(e){var t=arguments.length>1&&void 0!==arguments[1] &&argumen[1];bali I(e)?-1===["outstream","instream"].indexOf(Object(r.deepAccess)(e,"mediaTypes.".concat(ad,".context" )))?void(t&&Object(r.logError)(“Rubicon: mediaTypes.video.context 必须是外流或内流”)):S(e,”video”).length-1||i>-1? -1===r?1:-1 ===i?-1:ri:en})}函数x(e){var t=parseInt(Object(r.deepAccess)(e,”params.video. size_id"));返回isNaN(t)?"outstream" ===Obyek(r.deepAccess)(e,"mediaTypes.".concat(ad,".context"))?203:201:t}fungsi D(e){return{rentang:{low: [{maks:5,tambahan:.5}],sedheng:[{maks:20,tambahan:.1}],dhuwur:[{maks:20,tambahan:.01}],otomatis:[{maks:5 ,tambahan:.05},{min:5,maks:10,tambahan:.1},{min:10,maks:20,tambahan:.5}],padhet:[{maks:3,tambahan:.01 },{min:3,maks:8,tambahan:.05},{min:8,maks:20,tambahan:.5}],custom:e.getConfig("customPriceBucket")&&e.getConfig("customPriceBucket" ).buckets}[e.getConfig("priceGranularity")]}}fungsi R(e){var t=!0,n=Object.prototype.toString.call([]),i={mimes:n,protocols :n,linearity:Object.prototype.toString.call(0),api:n};返回 Object.keys(i).forEach(function(n){Object.prototype.toString.call(Object(r.deepAccess) (e,”mediaTypes.video.”+n))!==i[n]&&(t=!1,Object(r.logError)(“Rubicon: mediaTypes.video.”+n+” 是必需的,并且必须是类型:”+i[n]))}),t}fungsi k(e){var t=!1,n=["asi", "sid","hp"];kembali e.nodes? ((t=e.nodes.reduce(function(e,t){return e?n.every(function(e){return t.hasOwnProperty(e)}):e},!0))||Object(r.logError)("Rubicon: params schain dibutuhake ilang"),t):t}fungsi P(e,t){return"rp_schain"===e ?"rp_schain=".concat(t):" ".concat(e,”=”).concat(encodeURIComponent(t))}var U=!1;Object(i.registerBidder)(O)}},[ 787]),pbjsChunk([107],{875 :function(e,t,n){e.exports=n(876)},876:function(e,t,n){Object.defineProperty(t,” __esModule”,{value:!0}),nd (t,”tripleliftAdapterSpec”,function(){return m});var r=n(0),i=n(2),o=n(1), a=n(3);function c(){ return(c=Object.assign||fungsi(e){kanggo(var t=1;te.length)&&(t=e.length);kanggo(var n =0,r=new Array(t);n0&& (t.user={ext:{eids:o}});var s=function(e,t){var n={};return Object(r.isEmpty )(e)||(n.schain=d ({},e)),Obyek(r.isKosong)(t)||(n.fpd=d({},t)),n}(n,i);return Obyek(r.isEmpty)(s )||(t.ext=s),t}(e);if(n=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n,”lib”,”prebid”),n=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n, ”v”,”6.2.0″),t&&t.refererInfo){var o=t.refererInfo.referer;n=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n,”referrer”,o)}return t&&t.timeout&&(n=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n,”tmax”,t.timeout)),t&&t.gdprConsent&&(void 0 !==t.gdprConsent.gdprApplies&&(b=t.gdprConsent.gdprApplies,n=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n,”gdpr”,b.toString())),void 0!==t.gdprConsent.consentString&& (g=t.gdprConsent.consentString,n=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n,”cmp_cs”,g))),t&&t.uspConsent&&(n=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n,”us_privacy”,t. uspConsent)),!0===abgetConfig(“coppa”)&&(n=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n,”coppa”,!0)),n.lastIndexOf(“&”)===n.length-1&&(n=n.substring(0,n.length-1)),Object(r.logMessage)(“tlCall request dibangun: “+n),{metode:”POST”,url:n,data: i,bidderRequest:t}},interpretResponse:function(e,t){var n=t.bidderRequest;return(e.body.bids||[]).map(function(e){return function(e,t ){var n={},r=t.width||1,i=t.height||1,o=t.deal_id||"",a=t.crid||"",c=e. tawaran[t.imp_id];bali 0!=t.cpm&&t.ad&&(n={requestId:c.bidId,cpm:t.cpm,width:r,dhuwur:i,netRevenue:!0, ad:t.ad ,creativeId:a,dealId:o,currency:”USD”,ttl:300,tl_source:t.tl_source,meta:{}},v(c)&&(n.vastXml=t.ad, n.mediaType=” video”,n.ttl=3600),t.advertiser_name&&(n.meta.advertiserName=t.advertiser_name),t.adomain&&t.adomain.length&&(n.meta.advertiserDomains=t.adomain),t .tl_source&&”hdx” ==t.tl_source&&(n.meta.mediaType=”banner”),t.tl_source&&”tlx”==t.tl_source&&(n.meta.mediaType=”native”)),n}(n ,e)}) },getUserSyncs:function(e,t,n,i){var o=function(e){if(e)return e.iframeEnabled?”iframe”:e.pixelEnabled?”gambar”:void 0}(e) ;yen(o){var a="https://eb2.3lift.com/sync?";bali"gambar"===o&&(a=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(a, px”,1),a=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(a,”src”,”prebid”)),null!==g&&(a =Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(a,”gdpr”,b),a=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(a,”cmp_cs”,g)),i&&(a=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(a,” us_privacy",i)),[{type:o,url:a }]}}};fungsi v(e){return!!e.mediaTypes.video&&!!e.mediaTypes.video.context&&"instream"== =e.mediaTypes.video.context.toLowerCase()}fungsi y(e){var t=null;if(“function”==typeof e.getFloor ){var n=e.getFloor({currency:”USD” ,mediaType:v(e)?”video”:”spanduk”,ukuran:”*”});”obyek”!==s(n)||”USD”!==n.currency||isNaN(parseFloat(n.floor))||(t=parseFloat(n.floor))}return null!==t?t:e.params.floor}函数h(e,t){Obyek(r.isKosong)(t)||Object.keys(t).forEach(function(n){null!=t[n]&&(e[n]=t[n] )})}函数O(e,t,n,r){bali e.map(fungsi(e){fungsi bali(t){bali t&&t.userId&&t.userId[e]}}(t)).filter( _(t)).map(fungsi(e,t){fungsi bali(n){bali{sumber:e,uids:[{id:n.id?n.id:n,ext:{rtiPartner:t} }]}}}(n,r))}var _=function(e){返回函数(t,n,i){var o=!!t&&(Object(r.isStr)(t)?!!t :Object(r.isPlainObject)(t)&&!Object(r.isArray)(t)&&!Object(r.isEmpty)(t)&&t.id&&Object(r.isStr)(t.id)&&!!t. id);bali o||kosong 0===i[0]||Obyek(r.logWarn)("Triplelift: ora valid ".concat(e," format userId")),o}};fungsi j(e ){bali e.filter(S).map(fungsi(e){re转{w:e[0],h:e[1]}})}函数S(e){bali 2===e. dawa&&”nomer”==jinise[0]&&”nomer”==jenise[1]}Obyek(o.registerBidder)(m)}},[875]),pbjsChunk([11],{15:fungsi (e,t,n){tb=fungsi(e){var t= [];for(var n in e)if(e.hasOwnProperty(n))if(“pubProvidedId”===n)t=t .concat(e.pubProvidedId);else{var r=o(e[n],n);r&&t.push(r)}return t},ta=function(e){var t=[];return e.filter (fungsi(e){return Object(r.isPlainObject)(e.idObj)&&Object.keys(e.idObj).length}).forEach(function(e){Object.keys(e.idObj).forEach(function (n){Obyek(r.deepAccess)(e,"config.bidders")&&Array.isArray(e.config.bidders)&&Obyek(r.deepAccess)(i,n+".sumber")&&t.push({sumber :i[n].source,bidders:e.config.bidders}) })}),t};var r=n(0),i={intentIqId:{source:”intentiq.com”,atype:1 },naveggId:{sumber:”navegg.com”,atype:1},pubcid:{source:”pubcid.org”,atype:1},tdid:{source:”adserver.org”,atype:1,getUidExt :function(){return{rtiPartner:”TDID”}}},id5id :{getValue:function(e){return e.uid},source:”id5-sync.com”,atype:1,getUidExt:function( e){yen(e.ext)bali e.ext}},parrableId:{sumber:”parrable.com”,atype:1,getValue:function(e){return e.eid?e.eid:e.ccpaOptout ?”" :null},getUidExt:function(e){var t=Object(r.pick)(e,["ibaOptout","ccpaOptout"]);if(Object.keys(t).length)bali t }}, idl_env:{sumber:"atiamp.com",atype:3},lipb:{getValue:function(e){return e.lipbid},source:"liveintent.com",atype:3,getEidExt:function(e) {if(Array.isArray (e.segmen)&&e.segments.length)bali{segmen:e.segmen}}},britepoolid:{sumber:”britepool.com”,atype:3},dmdId:{source:” hcn.health”,atype :3},lotamePanoramaId:{sumber:”crwdcntrl.net”,atype:1},criteoId:{source:”criteo.com”,atype:1},merkleId:{source:”merkleinc.com",atype:3,getValue:function(e){return e.id},getUidExt:function(e){return e&&e.keyID?{keyID:e.keyID}:void 0}},netId:{source: “netid.de”,atype:1},IDP:{source:”zeotap.com”,atype:1},haloId:{source:”audigent.com”,atype:1},quantcastId:{source:”quantcast .com”,atype:1},nextrollId:{source:”nextroll.com”,atype:1},idx:{source:”idx.lat”,atype:1},connected:{来源:“verizonmedia.com ”,atype:3},fabrickId:{来源:“neustar.biz”,atype:1},mwOpenLinkId:{来源:“mediawallahscript.com”,atype:1},tapadId:{来源: “tapad.com”, atype:1},novatiq:{getValue:function(e){return e.snowflake},sumber:”novatiq.com”,atype:1},uid2:{source:”uidapi.com” ,atype:3,getValue :function(e){return e.id}},dapId:{source:”akamai.com”,atype:1},deepintentId:{source:”deepintent.com”,atype:3} ,admixerId:{source: ”admixer.net”,atype:3},adtelligentId:{source:”adtelligent.com”,atype:3},amxId:{source:”amxrtb.com”,atype:1},publinkId :{source:”epsilon .com”,atype:3},kpuid:{source:”kpuid.com”,atype:3},imuid:{source:”intimatemerger.com”,atype:1},connectId:{来源:”yahoo.com”,atype:3}};函数o(e,t){var n=i[t];if(n&&e){var o={};o.source=n.source;var a=Object (r.isFn)(n.getValue)?n.getValue(e):e;if(Object(r.isStr)(a)){var c={id:a,atype:n.atype} ;if( Obyek(r.isFn)(n.getUidExt)){var s=n.getUidExt(e);s&&(c.ext=s)}if(o.uids=[c],Object(r.isFn )(n .getEidExt)){var u=n.getEidExt(e);u&&(o.ext=u)}返回o}}return null}},897:function(e,t,n){e.exports=n( 898)},898:function(e,t,n){Object.defineProperty(t,"__esModule",{value: !0}),nd(t,"PBJS_USER_ID_OPTOUT_NAME",function(){return w}), nd(t,"coreStorage",fungsi(){return x}),nd(t,"syncDelay",function() {return _}),nd(t,"auctionDelay",function(){return j}) ,t.setSubmoduleRegistry=function(e){U=e},t.setStoredValue=B,t.setStoredConsentData=L,t .findRootDomain=V,t.requestBidsHook=K,nd(t,"validateGdprEnforcement",fungsi() {bali Y}),t.attachIdSystem=te,t.init=ne;var r=n(11),i= nn(r),o=n(3),a=n(10),c=nn (a),s=n(14),u=n(8),d=n(5),l=nn (d),f=n(9),p=n(15),b=n( 7),g=n(0),m=n(12),v=nn(m);函数y(e ,t){(null==t||t>e.length)&&(t=e .dawa);kanggo(var n=0,r=new Array(t);n1&&void 0!==参数[1] ?argument[1]:void 0,r=n?”.concat(e.name,”_”). concat(n):e.name;coba{if(e.type===A)t= x.getCookie(r);else if(e.type===I){var i=x.getDataFromLocalStorage(“ ”.concat(e.name,”_exp”));”"===i?t= x.getDataFromLocalStorage(r):i&&tanggal anyar(i).getTime()-Date.now()>0&&(t= decodeURIComponent(x.getDataFromLocalStorage(r)))}”string”==typeof t&&”{“===t.trim().charAt(0)&&(t=JSON.parse(t))}catch(e) { Object(g.logError)(e)}return t}function q(e){var t={consentString:”",gdprApplies:!1,apiVersion:0};return e&&(t.consentString=e.consentString, t .gdprApplies=e.gdprApplies,t.apiVersion=e.apiVersion),Object(g.cyrb53Hash)(JSON.stringify(t))}函数L(e){try{var t=new Date(Date.now( ) +864e5*C).toUTCString();x.setCookie(T,q(e),t,”Lax”)}catch(e){Object(g.logError)(e)}}函数F(){试试{return x.getCookie(T)}catch(e){Object(g.logError)(e)}}函数z(e){if(e&&”boolean”==typeof e.gdprApplies&&e.gdprApplies){if (!e.consentString)bali!1;yen(1===e.apiVersion&&!1===Obyek(g.deepAccess)(e,”vendorData. purposeConsents.1″))bali!1;yen(2=== e.apiVersion&&!1===Object(g.deepAccess)(e,”vendorData.purpose.consents.1″))return!1}return!0}function V(){var e=arguments.length>0&&void 0 !==argumen[0]?argumen[0]:window.location.hostname;if(!x.cookiesAreEnabled())bali e;var t,n,r=e.split(“.”);if(2 ==r.length)re转 e;var i=-2,o=”_rdc”.concat(Date.now()),a=”writeable”;do{t=r.slice(i).join( ".");var c =new Date(Object(g.timestamp)()+1e4).toUTCString();x.setCookie(o,a,c,"Lax",t,void 0),x.getCookie (o,void 0)= ==a?(n=!1,x.setCookie(o,”",”Thu, 01 Jan 1970 00:00:01 GMT”,void 0,t,void 0)): (i+=-1,n =Math.abs(i)0){t=!0;var r=!1,i=function(){r||(r=!0,e())};obyek (g.logInfo)(” “.concat(E,” – 拍卖延迟 “).concat(j,” 最多获取 id”)),O=setTimeout(i,j),W(n,i)} else caon (laEVENTS.AUCTION_END ,函数 e(){caoff(laEVENTS.AUCTION_END,e),_>0?setTimeout(function(){W(n)},_):W(n)})}e&&!t&&e() }函数 K(e,t){H(function(){!function(e,t){[e].some(function(e){bali!Array.isArray(e)||!e.dawa})||e.forEach(fungsi(e){e.bids&&Object(g.isArray)(e.bids)&&e.bids.forEach(fungsi(e){var n=fungsi(e,t){return Array.isArray(e)&&e.长度&&t?e.filter(fungsi(e){return!e.config.bidders||!Object(g.isArray)(e.config.bidders)||v()(e.config.bidders,t)} ) .filter(fungsi(e){return Object(g.isPlainObject)(e.idObj)&&Object.keys(e.idObj).length}).reduce(function(e,t){return Object.keys(t. idObj).forEach(function(n){e[n]=t.idObj[n] }),e},{}):{}}(t,e.bidder);Object.keys(n).length&& (e.userId=n,e.userIdAsEids=Object(pb)(n))}) })}(t.adUnits||Object(sa)().adUnits,h);var n=S&&(Q() ||[]).find(function(e){return e.source===S });if(n&&”string”==typeof Object(g.deepAccess)(n,”uids.0.id”) ){var r=n.uids[0].id.replace(/[\W_] /g,”");r.length>=32&&r.length=e.length?{rampung:!0}:{rampung :!1,value:e[r++]}},e:function(e){throw e},f:i}}throw new TypeError(“Invalid尝试迭代不可迭代实例。\n为了可迭代,绞救必须有一个[Symbol.iterator]()方法。”)}var o ,a=!0,c=!1;return{s:function(){n=n.call(e)},n:function( ){var e=n.next();bali a=e.rampung ,e},e:fungsi(e){c=!0,o=e},f:function(){nyoba{a||null==n.bali||n.bali()}最后{yen(c)uncalan o}}}}(i );coba{kanggo(ss();!(a=sn()).rampung;){var d=a.value;n.length>0&&-1=== n.indexOf(d.submodule.name) ||(Object(g.logInfo)(“”.concat(E,” – 刷新”).concat(d.submodule.name)),Z(d,e,o,!0),$(d), h.length&&N(h),Object(g.isFn)(d.callback)&&c.push(d))}} catch(e){se(e)}finally{sf()}c.length>0&&W(c ),t&&t()}else Object(g.logWarn)(“”.concat(E,” – gdpr 权限无效对于本地存储或 cookie,退出模块”))})}var Y=Object(fb)(“sync ”,fungsi(e,t){return{userIdModules:e,hasValidated:t&&t.hasValidated}},”validateGdprEnforcement” );函数 Z(e,t,n,r){if(e.config.storage){var i,o=M(e.config.storage),a=!1;if(“nomer”==typeof e.config.storage.refreshInSeconds){var c=New Date(M(e.config.storage,” pungkasan"));a=c&&Date.now()-c.getTime()>1e3*e.config.storage .refreshInSeconds}!o||a||r||!fungsi(e,t){bali null! =n&&n===q(t)}(0,t)?i=e.submodule.getId(e.config,t,o):”function”==typeof e.submodule.extendId&&(i=e.submodule.extendId(e.config,t,o)),Object(g.isPlainObject)(i)&&(i. id&&(B(e,i.id),o=i.id),”function”==jenis i.callback&&(e.callback=i.callback)),o&&(e.idObj=e.submodule.decode( o,e.config))} else if(e.config.value)e.idObj=e.config.value;else{var s=e.submodule.getId(e.config,t,void 0);Object( g.isPlainObject)(s)&&(“function”==typeof s.callback&&(e.callback=s.callback),s.id&&(e.idObj= e.submodule.decode(s.id,e.config) ))}}函数$(e){for(var t=!1,n=0;nt?e:t}函数d(e,t,n ){!e.preload&&e.preloadThreshhold&&function(e,t,n ,i){return t.top=e.shownThreshold&&!e.seen?(e.seen=!0,setTimeout(function(){e.trigger(“显示”,new r(“显示”,t))} ,15)):(!n||i1&&(h+=e(r,Math.floor(n/o),i-1,o)),h },this.getVerticallyVisiblePixels=f,this.getViewportHeight=function( ){bali t.innerHeight||e.documentElement.clientHeight||e.body.clientHeight},this.getViewportWidth=fungsi(){bali t.innerWidth|| e.documentElement.clientWidth||e.body.clientWidth}, this.isElementNotHidden=u,this.isElementInViewport=function(n){var i=n.getBoundingClientRect();bali i.top>=0&&i.left>=0&&i .bottom=o.length) 返回 { 完成:真 };返回 {完成: , Jeneng: o[i++] };}, e: 函数 e(_e) { 抛出 _e;}, f: F };} throw new TypeError(“对不可迭代实例的迭代尝试族代尝试无正。 ,非数组对象必须具有 [Simbol.iterator]() 方法。”);} var normalCompletion = bener, didErr = salah, err;bali { s: function s() { it = o[Symbol.iterator](); }, n: 函数 n() { var step = it.next();normalCompletion = step.done;返回步骤;}, e: 函数 e(_e2) { didErr = true;错误 = _e2;}, f: function f() {coba {yen (!normalCompletion && it.return != null) it.return();} 最后 {if (didErr) throw err;}}}};} function _unsupportedIterableToArray(o, minLen) { if (! o) bali;yen (jinis o === "string") bali _arrayLikeToArray(o, minLen);var n = Object.prototype.toString.call(o).slice(8, -1);yen (n == = “对象” && o.konstruktor) n = o.konstruktor.name;yen (n === “Peta” ||n === "Setel") bali Array.from(o);if (n === "参数" || /^(?:Ui|I)nt(?:8|16|32)(?:Clamped )?Array$/.test(n)) return _arrayLikeToArray(o, minLen);} 函数 _arrayLikeToArray(arr, len) { if (len == null || len > arr.length) len = arr.length;for ( var i = 0, arr2 = new Array(len); i


Wektu kirim: Jan-19-2022